Showing posts with label vienna. Show all posts
Showing posts with label vienna. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

The Hills Are Alive With the Sound of... Mozart Impersonators

Our first day in Vienna dawned, cool and crisp, with a free hostel breakfast waiting for us.  Tasty.

Which one of these two isn't a morning person?

Cameras and smiles at the ready

Hey there Zach!

Our intrepid group sets out on our first day!

Behold Vienna!
We set off first to see the Karlsplatz Ubahn station and the Karlskirche.  Karlsplatz is known for its gorgeous gold Jugendstil style.  This Art Nouveau style (which I love, by the way) is a common theme found in art and architecture around Vienna.  I think maybe the whole city was designed to fit my aesthetics. I desperately wanted to see inside the Karlskirche but it was 6 Euros entrance fee, so we decided that we were going to spend our money on the big museum we were going to see.  But at least now I have one (of many) excuse to go back!

At first I was a little underwhelmed.

Then I saw the other side!!


Almost everything was gilded gold or green.
And right behind the Karlsplatz was the Karlskirche!

Breathtaking!

There was an insane amount of detail on every inch of the facade.




Everything is more European with an accordion.
From there, we headed into the city to soak in the splendor of downtown and all it had to offer.  Our first stop was the Viennese Opera House.  We stopped by to get tickets for the next day's performance of Mozart's "Magic Flute".  The entire square was filled with tourists and all these people dressed up as Mozart.

Now before I left, my cousin had written to me and said "Watch our for the Mozart Impersonators!"  Yeah, whatever, I thought.  WRONG. These people (men and women) dress up as Mozart and harass you on the street to buy tickets for concerts and shows in Vienna.  They basically heckle you every second you walk around: "Do you speak English?!  You want to see a play tonight, yes?!  Do you like music?!"  It's even worse if you whip out a camera - they immediately hone in on your location and stalk you around.  Unbelievably annoying.  I practiced the tried and true "don't-make-eye-contact-and-just-keep-walking" approach, while Zach perfected his "I-only-speak-German-and-other-rare-language" approach.  Emily, meanwhile, when asked if she liked music simply said "No." and trotted away.  It was brilliant.

After securing our 10 Euro Opera tickets, Rachel, Zach, Jake, and I bought tickets for a musical in the evening.

The Viennese Opera House plus city tram


Amazing!
Then we just bummed around the downtown area, did some window shopping, drank some coffee/tea/hot chocolate, and tried to make our way to the famed Belvedere museum, home to an amazing collection of art, including Gustav Klimt's "Der Kuss" (The Kiss).



Another shot of the Opera House.
 If you look on the left side you can see a  Mozart.

Love the facade on this building and the window flowers


The first two floors of this elegant building are covered in a marble facade.
Inside is an H&M.
Who knew?


We have fun with a mirrored ceiling while buying tickets for the Opera

We found the French Embassy!

Emily photobombs my picture.
This is not the first time, nor will it be the last, I suspect.

Love the juxtaposition of old and new.

A hotel we thought was the Belvedere. Ooops.

Jake and Emily strike a pose.

More embassies on the way to the Belvedere.
We couldn't find the American one though.



After much wandering around we finally found the Belvedere!  It's an amazingly huge palace, with a upper and lower part, separated by a garden.  The main collection is in the Upper Belvedere and we started there first.

Carriage entrance to the Belvedere

Upper Belvedere!


Oh hey there Emily!

Belvedere and reflecting pool.
Too bad it was cold and gray on the day we went!



I wonder what school we all go to?

Avengers assemble!


The gardens looking down on the downtown and the Lower Belvedere
We bought our tickets and spent a good part of the day in the museum.  I loved the Upper Belvedere. There were so many amazing paintings and sculptures.  Unfortunately, you weren't allowed to take pictures of many of the artworks, so I'm relying on the wonders of the internet to show you a couple of my favorites.

Naturally, I loved "The Kiss" in real life.  It's so much bigger and brighter in real life than you see in photos! It's very moving and romantic.  It was definitely worth the price of admission to see this and other of Klimt's works.


"Der Kuss" - Gustav Klimt

"Die Lautenspielerin" - Friedrich von Amerling
"Twilight" - Carl Moll
There were also a couple of statues that were just breathtaking, but alas, the internet fails me on this score.  But as you can see, the Belvedere has a wide range of art and there is definitely going to be at least one painting you really like.

Then we went down the Lower Belvedere ready to enjoy more art.  Well...some people might call it art.

If you know me, or if you have known me for while, you will eventually get Rant #476 (I HATE MODERN ART), which is related to Rant #698 (People back in the day had talent), which nicely leads into Rant #90293 (I hate pretentious art in all its forms - poetry, literature, art).  

I'm an aesthetics person. I like art for art's sake. I'm not looking for a painting that conveys a message - it's just gotta be pretty.  I want something I can hang on my wall and say to myself "That's pretty", not "Wow, this artist captured the feeling of isolation of women in the post-modernist struggle of country reunification post-war." I really don't care.  I just like to have a pretty piece of art painted with talent and skill.

Nothing - NOTHING - in the world raises my blood pressure more than art that attempts to say something without actually being something.  You can't be thought-y with a red dot on a white canvas just because you gave it the title "Death on the Snowy Sahara, Opus 76".   That's not art and you have no talent.

Anyway, the Lower Belvedere had all this modern "art" from this dude named Curt Stenvert, who the exhibition would have you know is very famous and cool and controversial (He made art about women's rights in the 60s y'all...Oh wait, so did everyone else).  But seriously, after I saw a box painted red with a stopwatch inside of it with a small plaque declaring it was called "Time is Red", I just left the exhibit.  It was such a letdown to come from an entire palace filled with the works of the old masters, like Monet, Van Gogh, Freidrich, Klimt and end up staring a red box, which took, what, all of 10 minutes to make?  We all felt  a little cheated.

We had dinner - I think fast-food Doener Boxes (yummy) - and Rachel, Zach, Jake, and I set out to find the Raimund Theatre and our musical.  We had gotten the ultimate cheap seats for the musical "Ich war noch niemals in New York" (aka I've never been to New York), which you've probably never heard of.  It's basically a little like Mamma Mia, except instead of ABBA, you have Udo Jurgens, a famous German pop-ballad-drinking-song-writer from the 70s.  All of his biggest hits are loosely tied together in a plot whose whole basis is for someone on stage to say the line that leads into the song.

Let me just sum up "Ich war noch niemals in New York" in one word:  Sparkly.

Yep. Sparkles.
It was literally the most sparkly musical I've ever seen.  If they could put sequins on a costume, they did. And in the big finale/curtain call where they sing all the songs' refrains again, they shot off a glitter cannon.  A GLITTER CANNON!!! (Why I don't have one of these in my life is a mystery and a shame.)

Now, I went into this musical with a great deal of skepticism, despite the sparkles (I'm a girly-girl, bring on the sparkles), simply because I knew, deep in my bones, that the plot was going to be terrible.  And it was stupid.  But it was fun.  Everyone left the theater smiling and humming the tunes.  Would I see it again? Eh.  But I had a great time being there. 

And yes, I bought the Cast Recording, so if you hear me at home humming some infectious German ballad, it's probably Udo's fault.









 



Monday, October 17, 2011

Vienna: Pre-Departure Boarding Begins Now.

Hello my darlings!
Did you miss me?  Of course you did.
I am back from Vienna, safe and sound, and I come bearing gifts of stories and lots (and lots!) of photos!  Instead of subjecting you to one mega-post, I've decided to break up our Vienna adventure into multiple parts.

So why Vienna in the first place?
We all really wanted to go to Berlin.  But the tickets for plane and train (and automobile...Just kidding) were obscenely expensive.  Yes, it is true that Germany has an amazing public transportation system.  What they never tell you is that it costs an arm and a leg (and maybe a kidney) to get where you want to go.

So we cheaped out. Majorly. We daringly decided to do 60 Euro blind booking with German Wings. For 60 Euros, we would receive a round trip flight to one of six cities - Rome, Vienna, Berlin, Barcelona, Lisbon, or London.  The week we booked was a cold one in Tübingen and we prayed for a warm city.

Instead we got Vienna.

Which actually turned out to be amazing! After a scant four days in Vienna, I can honestly say I loved Vienna, despite the fact it was so cold.  And I think we managed to hit every touristy attraction there.  To be sure after the flight, the hostel, the food, the museum entrance fees, and souvenirs, I may be 250 Euros the lesser, but it was a wonderful experience.

Our journey began by taking the bus to the Stuttgart airport. (Actually, it began with me hastily packing and then realizing I had no mini-toothpaste and then running to DM to get some, but I digress) We checked in, got our seat assignments, and sauntered our way through security.  European security checks must be what American security checks were before 9/11. We just put our bags on the belt, stuff in the box, and walked through the metal detectors.  With our shoes on.

No long lines filled with surly TSA workers barking at you as you basically strip off all your clothes.  No standing sheepishly in the metal detector and then being wanded and patted down because oh-crap-I-should-have-worn-those-yoga-pants-instead-of-these-jeans-with-little-metal-studs-on- the-pockets.  No rushing to grab all your stuff off the Xray belt as hordes of people rush forward to do the same - please don't take my shoes, guy in the tweed jacket! I need those! Hey! That's my bag! Don't touch my passport, lady or I'll bite you.


Yes, German airline security was wonderfully easy and relaxing compared to the usual fiasco of American security.

Then we found our terminal and gate and waited.

Fear of flying? Not Zach and Emily!

See, all happy!

Jake with his obscenely expensive Apfelschorle

Aww hey there Rachel!

We boarded. But we were sans plane.

Then a giant bus pulled up and took us to our plane.  All 1960s like. It was classy.

Zach and Rachel take a nap on the plane ride.

After a turbulent flight - hurray for flying through thunderstorms! - we landed in a drizzly Vienna (or Wien, as the Germans call it).  We shuffled through the U-Bahn system and found our way to a restaurant that Jake knew about from his visit to Vienna earlier in the summer.

It was deliciously amazing.  I had the best Wiener schnitzel I've ever had there.  It was deliciously flattened and served with a lemon and potato salad.  (Although it wasn't real Weiner schnitzel - I'm not eating a baby cow for 15 Euros!)

Yours truly with her menu.
I like the festive fall/Halloween decorations!

All of us with our schnizels!
From left to right:
Emily, Helina, Jake, Rachel, Me, and Zach

And for dessert:
Sissi Torte
Named after the last Empress of Austria-Hungary
More info on her coming soon!

Zach was able to find us an amazing hostel thanks to recommendation from twitter (thank you internet gods!). Our hostel had both free breakfast and free internet, although sometimes the water in the showers was less than hot.  We arrived in the rain, expecting to find bunk beds in a large 20 person room and instead we all got a room with bunk beds for 6 people! Happy day!

Picture taken on a not rainy day

The task of unpacking!

Bunk buddies!

Emily and  Helina's bunk!
So we planned the rest of our trip with the help of pamphlets, free water, and free apples from downstairs.  Then we curled up in our bunks, ready for an exciting and full day ahead!