Wednesday, December 11, 2013

Marzipan and Castles: Lübeck and Schwerin (Tour of the North, Part II)

Dearest followers,

Yes, I realize that it's December. 

And I'm still doing Fall Break blog entries.  

But this is the last one, I swear.  
And best, of all, it has pretty pictures! (Well, as pretty as I can manage.)

After Melody, Sophia, and I fled the harsh storms of Hamburg, we arrived in Lübeck, which is as adorable and picturesque as everyone has said. 

Like a lot of cities in the north of Germany, this city, which still has its impressive city wall, used to be a vital harbor back in the day.  And by that, I mean, in the 1500s, when it was home to the Hanseatic League, which, as I've discussed before, sounds way more sinister than it actually was.

Now Lübeck is known for its cute city (so cute that UNESCO said the world had to take care of it) and its delicious marzipan!

Okay, it's also the birthplace of Willy Brandt, both Heinrich and Thomas Mann, and the hangout spot for Günter Grass.  

Who knew such a cute city could inspire such weird, depressing German literature? 

(Public Service Announcement for any of you interested in German lit: if the main character doesn't commit suicide, there will at least one awkward sex scene.)

Although Lübeck is the second-largest city in Schleswig-Holstein, it feels small.  When we went, there hardly any tourists, which made the city feel even smaller!

It was a cold and chilly day, but I had also neglected to properly charge my camera battery, so I only have a few photos to offer of the city!

Entrance to the city through the old city gate

A little side street devoid of tourists...
and people in general.

Outside St. Mary's Church, there is the cutest little devil you'll ever see.

But really, guys, he's actually the Devil.
According to legend, the Devil helped builders build what he believed was a new brewery and drinking hall.  To his surprise and dismay, he realized too late that he was helping the residents of Lübeck build a church.  In his rage, he began to scratch the stones of church (apparently, his claw marks can still be seen on the stones).  To keep him from destroying the church, the residents of Lübeck made a deal with the devil (this sort of thing happens a lot in Germany, apparently) and built a brewery across from the church on the condition that the Devil would leave the church unharmed.

Although the historical and literary buildings are pretty cool, Melody and I were way more interested in Lübeck's other attraction: almond paste!  Marzipan!

Now, I've always had this thing against marzipan, because I remember not liking it as a kid.  Which just proves that I was stupid when I was little.  I mean, it's pure sugar and almonds.

Anyway, Melody and I headed to Niederegger, the most famous marzipan producer in Germany, where everyday, they stage a marzipan show.

One of the master marzipan makers teaches the audience a little bit about marzipan and the history of the company, which has been around for over 200 years.  Their current head marzipan maker has been in the Guinness Book of World Records for making the world's largest marzipan dress and marzipan pig.  That's dedication.

And then the fun starts!

Everyone is given a small chunk of marzipan and then we are taught how to mold and shape our marzipan sticks!  We first learn how to make shapes like circles, teardrops, and cubes.  (Or you could be the guy across from us, who just ate his!)


Then the hard part starts.

Once your hands are pretty much coated in marzipan, you get to choose whether you want to make a rose or an animal.  Melody and I tried our hands at making some animals!  

At first, I made a dog, but he was little tiny (despite his very cute little pug tail!) so I broke him apart and began to make a teddy bear. But then I shaped his ears too small, so I ripped the bear apart, settling on a penguin.

Hey there, little buddy.
Melody was a bit choosier - going for a bear and then a kitty.

Marzipan friends!
Both marzipan friends were harmed after the taking of this picture.

After we both went a little crazy in the store (MARZIPAN FOR EVERYONE!) we headed up to the famous Marzipan Cafe for...what else?

Kaffee und Kuchen.


A marzipan hot chocolate and a black cherry chocolate
cream cake.
Decadent, indeed.
The warm drinks and the tasty cake made for a perfect afternoon snack away from the cold weather.

We spent the rest of the day just strolling through the city, relaxing and enjoying the sights.

In the evening, we set out for Schwerin, our last stop!

Now, I've stayed in some weird hostels during my time abroad (although I try to avoid the really weird ones - thanks HostelWorld!), but my experience at Schwerin was truly weird.

We arrived late in Schwerin and walked to our hostel through little cobblestoned streets past lakes and ponds that are scattered through the town.  When we got to our hostel, Melody and I were surprised to discover that no one was there.  After knocking several times, still no one appeared, so I called the number on the contact page.

A friendly woman picked up and told us the numerical code to a small black box on the side of the house, which held our house and room keys.  Once we unlocked the front door, she directed us to pick up our bedding, reminded us that the kitchen was free for us to use, and then she hung up.

Confused, Melody and I climbed the four flights of winding stairs up to our room, which was a 8 person bedroom.  Except we were only people there.

As we walked downstairs to eat dinner in the kitchen, we kept looking around for other people.  The kitchen lights and radio were both on, travel books and some personal items were on the table, and there were dishes drying by the sink.

And yet, there was no one.

We ate dinner and planned our day for the morning.  Still no one.  Then we went up to bed.  Still no one.

And when we set out early in the morning for Schwerin's biggest attraction, Schwerin Castle ("The Neuschwanstein of the North"), there was no other life in the house, except for us.  I tried to call the number again to say we were leaving our luggage until the afternoon when we would catch our train, but no one picked up.

At this time, we were both confused, but we set out for the castle, which was pretty easy to find.

Literally: "Castle Street"

Oh, there it is!
We struggled to find food in morning, because we both totally forgot that it was Reformation Day, which is conveniently only celebrated as a holiday in five German states.

Specifically, the one we were visiting and Sachsen, where we live.

Which means, that everything food related was closed.

 photo bravemeridafrustratedangry_zps1a042992.gif
Damn you, Germany and your Feiertage!

The first cause of American deaths in Germany -
starvation on Feiertage and Sundays.

Melody and I get along because we both belong to the personality type of No food means no happiness until food is acquired. 

Luckily, we didn't have to starve for long.  

We found one bakery that was open and we happily stocked up on food for the rest of the day.

Food and happiness restored, we strolled to the castle and munched on breakfast while we wandered through the gardens, waiting for the castle to open.

Schwerin Castle and its exquisite gardens are located on an island.  It used to be the home of the grand dukes of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern, but now it houses their parliament.

Not my photo.
I wish it was, but I had to give up my
helicopter to come to Germany.
Oh, and it's totally gorgeous.


Part of the castle is being refinished this year.

A look out onto the Schwerin Lake.
We strolled through the gardens and took in the last leaves of the season.



The castle doesn't need guards - it has a huge flock of
aggressive and scary seagulls!

Oh yeah, I could live here.



In other news, I love the super vivid setting
on my camera.


Since the castle was so lovely, I decide to make it lovelier by sticking my face into some pictures...


Alas, the pictures really serve only to remind everyone that I shouldn't be let out in public.

No seriously...

Why did you let me leave the country,
let alone the house, parents?!

We toured the back of the castle and explored the lakeside...






This art installation allows visitors to create their own works
of art against the backdrop of the lake.

Too cool!
We then visited the inside of the castle, which (shocker!) is just as gorgeous inside.  But you weren't allowed to take pictures inside (boo hiss).

But I can't be deterred in my blogalistic duties, so....

 photo totheinternet_zps5963d957.gif

The photos below are: a) not mine, and b) probably not legally taken to begin with, so enjoy the interior of Schwerin castle while you can.

This is the famous Blumenzimmer, favored by the Duchesses.

The amazingly detailed throne room ceiling
And the throne itself.
The castle is also supposedly haunted by a little poltergeist named Petermännchen, who takes the appearance of a little cavalier who is generally reported to be good natured.
After touring the castle, we strolled the city of Schwerin, which is cute as a button.

Hi.

I would like to live here.



One of the old buildings in Schwerin.

The old power plant now serves as a theater
As we returned to the hostel, we were pleasantly surprised to find someone there!  We paid for our night's stay and went to get our luggage.

But when we came back downstairs, everyone was gone again.

Did Melody and I pay a ghost?  Perhaps a relative of Petermännchen?

Who knows.

What I do know is that both Lübeck and Schwerin are adorable harbor cities and made a great finish to our Tour of North!  Hopefully, we can visit again - especially when the gardens of Schwerin are in full bloom!

Lots of Love,
Your Humble Blogger

PS.  One week until I'm back in America!




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